A first look at Shwen Shwen, Sevenoaks: sophistication and comfort defines Maria Bradford’s debut restaurant
After flying the flag for Sierra Leonean culinary tradition and contemporary West African fusion with her cookbook Sweet Salone, Maria Bradford’s debut restaurant, Shwen Shwen, brings the flavours of Freetown and beyond to Sevenoaks. Toyo Odetunde takes a first look.
The restaurant, which stands in an enviably dainty spot behind a courtyard terrace and a large maple tree, feels like its own little world. The interiors by 20.20 feature materials from Dar Leone, a contemporary design studio by Sierra Leonean-American artist Isatu Funna, evoke a real sense of place. Upholstery is decorated with multicolored kpokpo fabric with its signature geometric patterns. Tones of deep terracotta, mustard and orange-red create a lively warmth, with further character from the wallpaper, cushions and lampshades dotted with tropical West African flora. Set across two floors, it’s big enough to feel like a destination and not too cramped, but intimate enough for a cosy, neighbourhood feel.
Visitors to Shwen Shwen who have followed Maria Bradford’s journey from accountancy to a colourful career in food, will recognise her distinctive take on Sierra Leonean cuisine and wider Afro-fusion. The menus feel like a natural extension of the upmarket catering and supper club business she launched in 2017 based at her Kent studio. Dishes draw from her childhood in Freetown where she learned to cook, and cross-cultural culinary training, including at Leith’s.