I make one with ribboned mango tossed with sliced red onion, chilli and coriander,”
Kitchen aide Taste, taste, taste: the law when it comes to coleslaw
What’s the trick to great coleslaw? Chris, Paignton, Devon
“Coleslaw is such an underrated salad,” says Feast’s Felicity Cloake. “Familiarity breeds contempt.” (As do those claggy tubs you get in supermarkets.) The whole point of coleslaw is that the veg has to be crisp, which is why Cloake shreds rather than grates the cabbage. “And, if you have the patience, shred the carrot, too.” She tosses them with salt, vinegar and a little sugar, then leaves the mix to sit before draining.
Then, once drained, it’s time to bring on the mayo: “Don’t go overboard. It should be lightly dressed, not gloopy.” Cloake often adds horseradish or mustard, plus a few finely chopped spring onion or chives.
Conveniently, Jessica Prescott, author of Epic Salads, has been working on an essential coleslaw guide and her dressing template goes like this: “Two tablespoons of something creamy [mayo, sour cream, yoghurt], a tablespoon of something acidic [lemon or lime juice, cider vinegar], and citrus zest. A spoonful of mustard, honey or soy sauce can deepen the flavour.”
If mayo is your “something creamy”, Richard Turner, chef/partner of Bodean’s, advises adding some soured cream or crème fraîche, too, though Jack Croft, chef/co-owner of Fallow, Fowl and Roe, all in London, would ditch the white stuff altogether in favour of dijon mustard, a splash of good-quality vinegar, a drizzle of olive oil and a load of fresh herbs: “That’ll be rich enough without feeling heavy.”
Whatever your poison, it’s then time to prep the veg, Prescott says: “Thinly slice like a quarter of a green, red, savoy or napa cabbage, soak in cold water, then spin dry.” You could bolster things with grilled corn, carrot or cucumber: “Grated, finely diced or thinly sliced all work, but if you’re adding water-heavy veg, sprinkle with salt and let them sit first.” Soft herbs, “finely chopped so they integrate rather than dominate”, are non-negotiable, too, as is setting aside for 15 minutes, so “the flavours get friendly”.
Once dressed, “taste, taste, taste”, Turner says, because “a slaw’s character changes over time”. And if you’re not eating it straight away, Croft advises to cover and chill. “Just before serving, season with salt and a squeeze of lemon – this keeps the slaw bright and avoids clagginess.”
There is, of course, a whole world of slaws beyond coleslaw. Start by mixing up the veg: Turner combines a shredded savoy, two finely sliced onions, a julienned granny smith, a thinly sliced green pepper, a jalapeño and chopped coriander and mint. “Mix 100ml yoghurt, the juice and grated zest of two limes, some salt and sugar, and pour over the vegetables,” says Turner.
“I make one with ribboned mango tossed with sliced red onion, chilli and coriander,” adds Maria Bradford, food writer and chef/owner of Shwen Shwen in Sevenoaks, Kent, and brings that together with a lime and maple dressing. “It’s delicious with grilled meat or a baked bass.” The real takeaway here is that slaws are “one of the most flexible dishes”, Prescott says, so do your worst: “They’re riffable and satisfying.”
Anna Berrill Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian.com